Dinner Tonight: Momofuku Ramen
I’ve been cooking out of David Chang’s Momofuku cookbook for about a year, so it was finally time to break down and try the ramen. I’d held out because it’s a pretty daunting undertaking.
There’s a shredded pork shoulder. Roasted pork belly. A chicken stock made from pounds of chicken necks and backs. A Japanese barbecue sauce called “tare” made from another chicken back and a third of a pound of bacon. A sous vide egg. A thousand possible garnishes and embellishments. And I didn’t even TRY to make my noodles from scratch.
The end result is fantastic, but holy hell is it a lot of work. Not hard work, certainly, but a multi-day affair that will claim most of the pots in your kitchen at one time or another. I have a definite appreciation for single-focus ramen shops. The work and care that goes into truly exceptional ramen is easily enough to occupy a kitchen.
Also, one clear reason that everything Chang does tastes so good is that it’s all just bathing in fat. My kitchen is coated in this patina of schmaltz, pork fat and bacon grease.
In no way should you construe that in a pejorative sense.
Dinner Tonight: “Caprese” (click to embiggen)
Cherry Tomatoes, Silken Tofu, Shiso, Sesame Vinaigrette
I hate the use of scare quotes on menus. Usually because they’re completely unnecessary. It’ll say something like “coffee” and then go on to describe something that in no way deviates from the usual coffee with which we’re all familiar. Drives me nuts.
This time, though, I guess it makes sense. This is out of the Momofuku cookbook. I suppose the tomatoes are consistent, but everything else is flipped. Tofu for the mozzarella; shiso for the basil; sesame oil for olive oil. I grew the tomatoes, so that’s rowdy.
And, while the flavors are different, it accomplishes the same thing as a traditional caprese, if that makes any sense. I guess that’s the point.
Also, it’s a gorgeous dish.
Dinner Tonight:
Fuji Apple, Maple-Labneh, Jowl, Kimchi Puree
A couple of friends came over to cook tonight. Please to excuse the forthcoming photo spam.
48-Hour Shortribs, Dashi-poached Daikon, Pickled Carrot, Scallion
The cookbook says something like “This recipe is not a reasonable proposition for a home cook unless you’re willing to buy a vacuum sealer and fabricate a water circulator situation.”
I mean SURE, but you don’t have to make me feel bad about having done so.
This was cooked for two full days in a 140 degree water bath. The result is medium beef (I guess I’d have liked it a little more rare) that’s fork tender, and a concentrated, umami-bomb of a braising liquid. The daikon and pickled carrots set it off pretty nicely.
That said, 48+ hours is a FUCKING REALLY LONG TIME to fuss over dinner.
Dinner Tonight (2 of 2) — Littleneck clams, Lardons, Bacon Dashi, Scallion Oil
Dinner Tonight (1 of 2): Fluke — Buttermilk, Soy and Poppy
Dinner Tonight: Potential Last Supper edition (2 of 2)
Sea Scallop, Dashi, Pineapple, Chive Oil
(part one is here)
Dinner Tonight: Potential Last Supper edition (1 of 2)
Cured Hamachi, Edamame-Horseradish Puree, Furikake
Ice fishing/Winter camping with these two miscreants commences tomorrow at 5:30 a.m. I will, at least, make a well-fed Bill-cicle.
Dinner Last Night: This Momofuku Cookbook is Going to be a Problem edition
Pan-seared asparagus, shiro-miso butter, in-shell-poached egg
I finally got back in my kitchen after a month. This was part of the haul. I got the Momofuku cookbook for Christmas and I want to cook ALL OF THE THINGS. NOW. This was the first stab. The poached egg, plus the miso butter, gives off something like hollandaise. It’s nice.
I’ve also got, now that I’ve got access to all my stuff again, a slew of food pics from the holidays. Some of them even look edible!
